Day 230

I'm being so social these days I barely recognize myself. My circle is expanding, slowly but surely. And I don't hate it either. I even helped blow up balloons today for the Halloween office party. I think they think I'm a (gasp) team player. Could be worse. 

Day 229

My head is full of stuff I do not understand.

Day 228

Tacos and foreigners for dinner. Yum.

Nice way to follow up a company-wide meeting with our 30-something, headset clad CEO to inform us that he sold the company he started (and I just joined) at 21 for $350 million to some even bigger mega e-commerce retail company. And that things "weren't going to change". 

Oh Corporate America, you so crazy!

Day 227

Went to see Federico Aubele open up for Thievery Corporation. WOW.

Day 226

I want to see Where The Wild Things Are Again.

Carol: It's going to be a place where only the things you want to happen, would happen.
Max: We could totally build a place like that!

Day 225

Rainy day. Good company. Homemade pasta. Where The Wild Things Are. Tons of wind. Tons more rain. The Christmas tree bar. Martinis. Conversation. Sleepover!

     

                                          

Day 224

I like today. A lot. I left work an hour early after chatting online and reading nyt.com all day. Then I went to work at the wine shop stopping at the Salumeria to pick up semolina flour so I can make fresh pasta tomorrow. Fresh pasta that I learned how to make in Chianti last month. Came home with two new bottles of wine. One, an orange wine, a cutting edge new style of wine that's really just an old style enjoying a comeback. A white wine made in the style of a red. It's weird. But good! It started to sprinkle just as I was walking home, down my tree-lined street in to my Cosby Show-esque apartment. And I just felt really satisfied. 

About 5 years ago, I was watching a special about Boston on the travel channel, specifically the North End. I remember thinking how charming it looked and hoped that one day I'd escape the suburbs of Detroit and live in a little Italian neighborhood with little markets and cafes and I'd know people names. And they'd know mine. 

I have the life I've always wanted. Of course 5 years later, I have new dreams and am curious about new places and careers etc etc. But right isn't so bad. Not at all. 

 

Day 223

An oasis of horror in a desert of boredom. I've been there before. This morning actually.

("W" Magazine)

Day 222

Sometimes I'm so busy thinking my job is stoopid that I forget how much it doesn't suck. Had some free-time at work today so I was able to finish re-writing a friend's resume. He is a financial auditor. DO YOU KNOW WHAT AUDITORS HAVE TO DO??? I got both bored and confused just reading his resume. Holy color coded excel documents and pie charts. Not cool. 

Today I'm thankful I am not an auditor. 

Day 221

A light at the end of the tunnel. Today, in the tunnel, I smile and nodded a lot. And reminded myself that none of it really mattered, so just do what they say. Talk in a phone voice to upper-management when necessary. Pretend to share their enthusiasm. Agree (lie) that you will help with Halloween decorations. Gchat to pass the time. Roll my eyes every now and then. Bite my tongue. Leave at 4:59:59. 

Day 220

Can't stop making music videos.

Day 219

Dear Brian, 

If these fools can do it, SO CAN WE.

Herbs & Spices,

Stephanie

Day 218

Working on wine shop stuff. Watching movies. Eating PB+J. Forcing myself to continue to write on this thing every day even though I have a job(s) and even if I have nothing remotely interesting to report. Because it makes me think about my job sitch. And reminds me not to get comfortable. I don't like being comfortable. I like being excited. Which means I need to find ways to escape 9-5 before it sucks the momentum from me. 

Day 217

We are all going to die. 

Simon, thanks for the heads up. Another fantastic project from one of my favorite photographers. 

Day 216

Somebody at the wine shop asked me what I do for a living besides the wine shop. I do not like this question. 

Day 215

I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. I'm not going to get sick. 

Day 214

Exactly 7 months later, and after putting it off for as long as possible, I'm officially employed. I have a "real" job again. But if loving having 2 or 3 or 6 unrelated jobs instead of one is wrong, I don't wanna be right. Variety really is the spice of life. For me at least. So the "real" job is temporary. 

I promise. 

Day 213

SCORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Surprised my mom with a day trip to New York City.

She is the only person on earth I would ride a double decker tour bus for. She told me she had the best time of her whole life.

Day 212

The Julies breakfasting.

The Julies posing on Commonwealth Avenue.

The Julies takin' the Orange Line.

The Julies munching.

The Julies stoopin'. 

Double the Julie. Double the fun.

Day 211

The Julies are here! The Julies are here! I've been shopping and cooking ALL day. My mom's turn to Vivir Bien. And my last weekend of technical unemployment. The best job title I've ever had. 

Day 210

Bartending school. Check!

Passed my written AND drink drill. I'm ready to judge bartenders on things other than their shitty personalities. And order things like sidecars and grand golden margaritas. And moonlight at some swanky hotel bar that caters to olive-skinned international travelers (and EXTRA awesome renegade whities like Jen + Brandon, bien sur). 

Topped off my Friday with a tasting at the wineshop. Took some footage for the upcoming music videos I will make for the wine shop's web site. I can't stop. Although iMovie will be the death of me. 

Day 209

Being a producaaaa is my new favorite job. And Facebook and YouTube are cramping my style BIG TIME. Got a notice from Facebook this AM informing me that they deleted the video I made of my friend's wedding because the song was a copyright infringement. A video YouTube wouldn't even let me upload for the same reason. That is total horseshit as my Uncle Charlie would say. What's next? Am I not going to be allowed to play the songs in my own apartment in case my neighbors can hear it without penalty! Fuck. It's a HOME MOVIE for crying outloud. My memories require fresh lyrics and sweet beats and low maintenance mass distribution. End of story. 

Day 208

10 counts vodka
2 counts olive juice
Stir
Pour
Garnish

Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat.

Day 207

Thank God for movies.

Day 206

Things I learned at bartending school today:

To 'Flag a drink' means to garnish with a cherry AND orange.

Fizz means 7-up.

Fuzz means peach.

Pres means ginger ale and soda.

SoCo is not a whisky, it's a liqueur.

Rum was spread by pirates.

Light liquors love lime

Anything with ice gets a straw

Always grab bottles by the neck.

Never touch glasses 'above the equator'.

I want to go to Ireland really bad. Like now.

Day 205

Since I'm about to come out of early retirement, I've been trying not to exert myself by you know, putting on clothes or something stoopid like that. But I needed toilet paper. So I had to miss the last half of When Harry Met Sally (good thing it's on again at 9!) to run to the market. 

The guy in front of me must have been an early retiree also. Only a giant bottle of Jack Daniels and peanut M&Ms for him. Maybe he has yet to discover how much retirement RULES. Or maybe he wasn't laid off at all and he is just an alchy with sweet tooth. 

Day 204

Flip Camera, have I told you lately that I love you?

Day 203

Unpacking and finding incomprehensible notes, tiny pieces of papers with email addresses and tons of business cards. Including one from the Kiwi Farmers!

Of my favorite people we met on the trip are the organic kiwi farmers from New Zealand. They used to be teachers. Then it stopped being fun and they got tired of dealing with all the BS. So they quit and bought a kiwi farm. Did they know how farm kiwis? No. Did they know how to farm anything? No. Did they know about pollination/harvesting/farming organically? No, no and no. They asked a lot of questions and made a few mistakes here and there and figured it out. They do everything together and they get a kick out of it. And they bounce around Europe on their down time.

What.

Oh and they told us about some program called something I don't remember where you go live on a kiwi (or whatever) farm for a couple days, pick for 4 hours in exchange for room and board, then just hang out and sightseeeee. Hmmmmmmmm....

Just kidding. Maybe.

Day 202

One word. DETOX.

While browsing Trader Joes for things with no sodium or preservatives or taste, I talked on the phone. Loudly. I can't help it, my voice carries. On my way to the check out, an older employee stopped me (at first I thought to cuss me out for being super annoying) because he heard me mention Barcelona. He told me he was leaving for Spain tonight and got so excited when he heard me mention it. He and his wife are taking off for 3 weeks and renting a house in some city in the north of Spain. Last year the rented a villa south of Florence. The year before that they rented a place in Burgundy. Wait, it gets better.

He said this trip was kind of fluke, planned last minute. About 9 months ago, they were in Venice and he was so inspired, he started painting. So he booked the Spain trip because he just wanted to paint again.

It gets mo' better. On December 5th, he's already arranged for an exhibition of his paintings at a cafe in the South End.

He had never touched a paint brush before his trip to Venice. He. Works. At. Trader. Joe's.

HOW COOL!

Day 201

Home sweet home. Sweata weatha.

Day 200

One step closer to picking grapes on a rolling hillside under the Tuscan sun.

From Niccolo:

Hey bellissima!

I'd love to organize a rendez vous! We can do in NY or maybe Detroit since I haven't been...Otherwise you two can always come with me in one of my next trips to california and Vegas... Now you know enough of Testamata that you can do the presentations with me!

Let's plan it! When does it work for you?

N

Day 199

Every winter, the Chaldeans take turns going to each other's betha (house) to make tons and tons of eekhala (food) to store in the freezer and eat during the winter. 

They made kibbie. I made pictures. 

Day 198

Maid-of-honoring!

We've come a long way since Brody Hall circa year 2000. Dark lipstick, out. Dark advertising industry-tainted souls IN. For now. But nothing marriage and unemployment can't cure.

Day 197

I cooked the Chaldeans a big fat Italian feast tonight with ingredients strait up from the market in Firenze. Cherry tomato, crushed red pepper and sausage pasta, porchini mushroom risotto, spinach and pomodoro noodles with a light herb cream sauce, toasted crusty bread with black truffle spread, sliced salami, sundried cherry tomatoes, and chicken (nugget) parm for the kids.

Because I can't bring myself to buy any more t-shirts and key chains and mini monument statues from the places I visit. I prefer souvenirs of the edible variety. 

Day 196 P.S.

My little Parisians. 

Day 196

Back to reality. O! There goes gravity.

Laundry at 7am

Dentist at 9am

Bank at 9:30am

Pharmacy at 9:45am

Unpack from 3 weeks of European adventure

Pack for 1 MORE week of adventure in the city formerly known as the Paris of America. 

Next flight leaves in T minus 4 hours. 

Go. Go. Go. Go.

Day 195

Woke up in Madrid on the vacation that just won't quit. I don't know my holas from my bon gournos from my bonjours anymore. Or my por favors from my sil vous plaits. I think that means it's time to go home. I'm down to my last toothpaste. My last euro. My last underwear. And probably my last artery. 

My head is spinning. Was I really dancing on top of Tuscany a couple weeks ago? Ziplining through the Alps, playing cards with Russians, skinny dipping in the Mediterranean with two of my best friends, slamming whisky with Spaniards, and dangling my feet over the Seine? 

Hell yes. And I'll do it again. (Once I replenish my devastated bank account.)

But right now, all I want to do is walk up my little stoop, up to my little bed, in my little apartment on my little brick-paved, tree-lined street. God bless America. With it's predicable toilets and resistible pastries. 

VIVIR BIEN

Day 194

So many ways to flush a toilet, so little time.

There are a thousand things I could have done today. Musee d'Orsay, Musee Carnavalet, the Catacombs, etc etc etc. But all I really wanted to do was spend my last afternoon in Paris as I had spent the first five. Wandering. So I did. I revisited all my favorites. There was an almond croissant at the Jewish Bakery on Rue des Rosiers, another walk along the Seine via Pont Louis Phillip, another look at Chez Julien, more ice cream on the Ile Saint Louis (I mean, why stop now?)...

...and my last meal in Paris? French onion soup. Slimy. Salty. Cheesy. Not how I wanted to remember the French. So I went hunting for one last macaroon before my flight to Madrid (and 16 hour layover...oops).

I can't imagine a better way to end three of the most invigorating weeks of my life. There's nothing I can say about this city that hasn't already been said but I can say I now know why everyone falls in love with it. Even though we've just met and even though I've only scratched the surface. It is intoxicating. I already can't wait to return. 

Day 193

The Luxembourg Gardens were just that. Lux. Well manicured. Colorful. Flowery. Quite perfect (read: boring). I didn't stay long. I prefer sitting by the Seine. Where there's people and water and the perfect amount of dirty. 

Came back to the hotel for a conference call with the place I have been freelancing with. The price was right. So as of October 13, I will officially join the rest of the robots. Not gonna lie, I'm pretty pumped about health insurance and 401K and unlimited free lemon Snapple. And even more excited to start saving for my great escape. Just as long as 300 other things fall into place like visas and jobs and housing and deciding where I want to live. I thought this trip would help me decide which country or city to live, but it has only made me more confused. 

In a perfect world, I would live in Paris with Italian people who speak Spanish. And I'd have a tomato garden on my rooftop and moonlight at the Jewish Bakery down the street when I'm not slinging English lessons. 

 

Day 192

Tourist time. 

I probably walked the entire perimeter of Monmartre Cemetary without seeing a single tombstone. Hell if I couldn't find the damn thing and after an hour going in circles, I didn't want to anymore anyway. I was hot and tired and I had to pee like a muther. I went left like the sign said. Then what, sign??? You left me hanging! After walking down 4 blocks of XXX shops and peep shows and everything! You and your damn arrows. Lies. All lies.

Luckily the Louvre and Champs Elysees were where they said they were. And...wow. I've seen a thousand pictures of the Louvre but like the Eiffel Tower (and Venice, and The David, the Trevi Fountain,  Sistine Chapel and New York City in a taxi from JFK at night) nothing can prepare you or compare to the moment you see it with your own eyes, and no picture you take can fully reflect the magic of these places.

I tried anyway. 

And like the Eiffel Tower and the David, etc etc etc, just when you think you've captured every possible angle, you walk away 10 feet and it's like this whole new thing. Requiring you to stop in your tracks as if you're seeing it for the first time. Requiring a new round of pictures, too, because now trees have entered the scene or the lighting is different here and the Thing is brand new without ever changing.

I sat there today on the fountain at the Louvre (eating a macaroon filled with fresh whole raspberries) looking at all these people with their maps and cameras and guidebooks and money belts. Art has this amazing way of bringing people of all ages and colors and religions and continents together. I know there are much deeper levels on which you can and should appreciate a painting and a sculpture. But mostly, I just dig it's power to bring people together. We're all here to see something amazing. And we all did. 

As for dinner, I found myself in my favorite part of the city (and my home base for the last week), Le Marais. On my favorite cobblestoned street, rue de Rosiers, in the heart of the Jewish neighborhood. Never have I seen more yamakas or falafel joints in my life and never have I been so delighted. I ate at Chez Marianne and it might be the best meal I've had yet (if you don't count the macaroon at the Louvre or my plate at the Marche du Enfants Rouge). The kefka, hummus and olives were perfect but it was the atmosphere that I will remember. I will be back. 

Day 191

To the market

To the market

To take pictures of people buying a fat pig

People still do this. In some corners of the world, there are people who wake up early on weekends and go to the market and the fromagerie and the patisserie and the marche du flours. And I went looking for them today. Because I love them. 

I haven't been to the Louvre, the Champs Elysee, Versailles or the Musee d'Orsay but I've been to just about every market this side of the Seine, in search of the market I saw in the movie Two Days In Paris. I didn't find The market. I didn't get the pictures I wanted. I did get lost. A lot. I did in 7 hours what should have taken 1.5. It was a miracle I made it back to my hotel. I walked in and the hotel clerk (the black Lerche) shook his head and mumbled "should've gone to Versailles like I told you...". I know, Lerche, I KNOW! 

A couple hours later I was showered, with Nutella crepe in hand, with my feet dangling over the Seine. Thinking this can't be real. Watched the sun set. Watched the lights flicker on underneath the bridges. Watched people watch other people. Wishing I had my people next to me, some booze and some cloves. Next time...

I love Paris. But who doesn't.

Day 190

NOT at the Ray Lamontagne concert tonight in Paris. But I am in Paris, so I'll try not to let that bother me (even though it is really really SUPER hard not to).

I started my day as I would start every day if it were up to me. At a market. And in particular, Marche des Enfants Rouges, the oldest covered market it Paris. Is it bad that this was almost more exciting than Notre Dame or the Eiffel Tower (which to me is much more enchanting when you see it peaking over rooftops or trees than in full body shot view). Two hours, a hundred pictures and some food from My People later, I was wandering around Le Marais looking for a Picasso Museum that had been closed for 2 years for restoration. Ooops. But by happenstance, came across rue de Rosiers, the heart of the Jewish neighborhood. I went into a real Jewish bakery, heard an amazing men's choir through the windows of a synagogue, and bought a couple vintage dresses from some super adorable old man in a resale shop--ones that I was only able to try on once I got back to my hotel and ones that subsequently will never see the light of day. On me at least. 

Tonight I headed across the Seine to the the Ile St. Loise for salted caramel ice cream (yeah you heard me) and a cheese plate at some brasserie on the water. Because I couldn't understand anything else on the menu. Crossed back over the bridge to find a wine AND cheese festival along the banks of the river. How did I not see or hear this before! I could have been eating my cheese with my feet hanging over the Seine. C'est le vie. Maybe tomorrow.

Also by happenstance, on my way back to my hotel, after meandering through hoards of teenagers swigging champagne along the Seine, I found the restaurant I feel in love with in the New York Times article a while back. It made me melt when I saw the picture. It made me melt when I stood in front of it, taking my own. I can't wait to come back here for dinner next time I'm in Paris. It's kind of place you want to share with someone. 

Day 189 Part Deux

This is my third holiday in Europe but only my first trip to Paris. I was saving Paris. For when I was in love and blah blah blah. Silly I know but that's how I imagined experiencing it. And here I am. Not in love in the traditional sense but kind of in love with life. I am somewhere a little too beautiful to be true when life feels a little to good to be true. When every idea I get in my head materializes. And things keeping falling into place, granted at their own pace not mine. 

I know life will suck again at some point. It has to. That's it's job. But I think I've learned how to make it good again when it does. Less thinking, more doing. And remembering that when one day or week or year sucks, there's always another day. And the next day could rule. And everything can change. 

I heard this song today. Coincidence? Couldn't have said it better, Jack. 

Who's to say
What's impossible
Well they forgot
This world keeps spinning
And with each new day
I can feel a change in everything
And as my mind begins to spread its wings
There's no stoppin' curiosity

I wanna turn the whole thing upside down
I'll find the things they say just can't be found
I'll share this love I find with everyone
We'll sing and dance to Mother Nature's song
I don't want this feeling to go away

Who's to say
I can't do everything
Well I can try

Day 189

Holy cow. I'm in love.

Day 188

It rained again but I had to see the old Madrid one more time. Before I took off for Paris. I got soaked and had to wear wet shoes for my flight. And was worth it. 

And whoever invented this combination should be shot. Or made a saint. I can't decide.

Day 187

And then there was one. Nicole bid Vivir Bien adeiu. And I slept all day at the Munoz's three story casa, recovering from vivir-ing too much the night before. And the whole time, I just kept thinking, I wouldn't be here in this amazing home in this amazing city with these amazing people had I not gotten laid off from buzzkill of a job. Just yesterday my first ESL class was ending and Raquel was inviting Myriem and I to Madrid. A couple months later, here were are. 

It rained in Madrid for the first time in 2 months. So we got bundled up and headed out for a mini roadtrip to the medieval village that Raquel's mom was born in, Avila. The walls are a thousand years old and she told us how they would run around at night playing cops and robbers. The only thing they had to play with were stones and their imagination. 'Que abburido!' (how boring!) she kept saying but to me it's just amazing. Like a movie. 

Day 186

Last night I met Madrid but it wasn't love at first sight. I mean the buildings were ornate. There were people and cafes and holas and adios' but it wasn't what I imagined Madrid to be. Too big and metropolitan and flashy. Too could-be-any-city-europe.

But Today I found what I was looking for. Saturated color. Slanted arches. Fading signs. Crooked cobblestone. Cracks. Imperfections. Traces of another time and another people. And I was happy again.

And hungry again. Because we hadn't eaten in 27 minutes. So Raquel and her amazing friends fed us. There was a lot of paella, whisky and th's and rrrrrr's. 

It was a pleeeeaaaathuuuuuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeeee.

 

Day 185

Our work here is done. Onto Madrid.

Day 184

I came to Barcelona 6 years ago to see a place that, until then, had only existed in my imagination. A country that I was sure I was from in another life. How else do you explain my love for chips and salsa and dark olive-skinned men? I've been retracing my steps for the past few days and life here is just as sweet and colorful as I remember. Maybe more. 

Day 183

All Gaudi. All day. A lot of form, not a lot of function. But function is overrated.

     

Just when my legs were gonna call it a day, we got to the real sightseeing. We saw more cheese. More olives. More bread with a sauce we'll just refer to as crack. And many shades of sangria. 

And then there might have been some skinny dipping in the Mediterranean Sea. Under the moonlight. With an audience we could have done without.